Friday, July 25, 2008
CORTONA
Research on the mosaicry of my favorite artist, Gino Severini, sent me to my last Tuscan hill town in Italy...
Although you’ll probably see many Americans in CORTONA due to the popular book and film Under the Tuscan Sun, this small hill town is still charming. From the Camucia train station, wait for a bus or share a taxi (about 10 €) into the town center. A combo-ticket provides entry into the Museo Diocesano featuring Fra Angelico’s Annunciation as well as the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca with an ornate nautical bronze Etruscan chandelier and a whole room dedicated to Futurist artist Gino Severini. Admire his mosaics along the steep Via Crucis leading up to the Basilica di Santa Margherita (with a decaying body!) and continue on to the Medici fortezza with unparalleled countryside views including Lake Trasimeno. June brings the Giostra Dell’Archidado, a heavily touristed crossbow contest in which citizens dress to the nines in medieval costume. (http://www.cortonaweb.net/archidado/index.htm)
Although you’ll probably see many Americans in CORTONA due to the popular book and film Under the Tuscan Sun, this small hill town is still charming. From the Camucia train station, wait for a bus or share a taxi (about 10 €) into the town center. A combo-ticket provides entry into the Museo Diocesano featuring Fra Angelico’s Annunciation as well as the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca with an ornate nautical bronze Etruscan chandelier and a whole room dedicated to Futurist artist Gino Severini. Admire his mosaics along the steep Via Crucis leading up to the Basilica di Santa Margherita (with a decaying body!) and continue on to the Medici fortezza with unparalleled countryside views including Lake Trasimeno. June brings the Giostra Dell’Archidado, a heavily touristed crossbow contest in which citizens dress to the nines in medieval costume. (http://www.cortonaweb.net/archidado/index.htm)
LE CINQUE TERRE
Ladies' weekend in the rain! We were so proud that we completed the entire hike between all five towns.
The UNESCO-protected CINQUE TERRE are a day trip for the truly ambitious. Take the 7:51 Intercity to La Spezia Centrale and then quickly hop on the 10:00 Regional to the southernmost town, Riomaggiore. Once there purchase a 5 € day pass to hike the ocean side footpaths within the Parco Nazionale that connect the five towns (about 4-5 hours without stopping). An 8.50 € pass covers access to all trails plus unlimited train rides between towns. Vernazza has a small harbor and tower, and Monterosso a large stretch of beach. Celebrate your day of mountaineering with superb seafood and service from Firenzo at Ristorante il Ciliegio, a ten-minute ride uphill from Monterosso in the restaurant’s complimentary shuttle. Consult www.cinqueterre.it and www.parconazionale5terre.it for information about the other villages and Cinque Terre Cards.
The UNESCO-protected CINQUE TERRE are a day trip for the truly ambitious. Take the 7:51 Intercity to La Spezia Centrale and then quickly hop on the 10:00 Regional to the southernmost town, Riomaggiore. Once there purchase a 5 € day pass to hike the ocean side footpaths within the Parco Nazionale that connect the five towns (about 4-5 hours without stopping). An 8.50 € pass covers access to all trails plus unlimited train rides between towns. Vernazza has a small harbor and tower, and Monterosso a large stretch of beach. Celebrate your day of mountaineering with superb seafood and service from Firenzo at Ristorante il Ciliegio, a ten-minute ride uphill from Monterosso in the restaurant’s complimentary shuttle. Consult www.cinqueterre.it and www.parconazionale5terre.it for information about the other villages and Cinque Terre Cards.
PERUGIA
A cute little town with yummy chocolate.
Chocolate lovers flock to PERUGIA’s annual October Eurochocolate Festival. (www.eurochocolate.com) To get into town, take a bus from the train station to Piazza Italia, or get off at the main bus station in Piazza dei Partigiani and ride the escalator through the Rocca Paolina to the top of the hill. Corso Vannucci is the main thoroughfare— be sure to bring home Perugina Baci from number 101! Farther ahead, the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria offers a stellar collection of works by Fra Angelico, Piero della Francesca, Pintoricchio, and Perugino, Raphael’s teacher. You can see Raphael’s early handiwork in the Cappella di San Severo, and a combo-ticket also gets you into the underground Pozzo Etrusco. Take some time to duck into the Duomo and browse the many boutiques nearby.
Chocolate lovers flock to PERUGIA’s annual October Eurochocolate Festival. (www.eurochocolate.com) To get into town, take a bus from the train station to Piazza Italia, or get off at the main bus station in Piazza dei Partigiani and ride the escalator through the Rocca Paolina to the top of the hill. Corso Vannucci is the main thoroughfare— be sure to bring home Perugina Baci from number 101! Farther ahead, the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria offers a stellar collection of works by Fra Angelico, Piero della Francesca, Pintoricchio, and Perugino, Raphael’s teacher. You can see Raphael’s early handiwork in the Cappella di San Severo, and a combo-ticket also gets you into the underground Pozzo Etrusco. Take some time to duck into the Duomo and browse the many boutiques nearby.
GUBBIO
LA MAREMMA
SIENA
MONTEPULCIANO
MODENA
Visiting La Galleria di Ferrari in Maranello was truly unforgettable! I even witnessed a spectacular Sunday morning car show in Modena's main piazza complete with more than one hundred red and yellow different models of Ferraris.
If you’re lucky, you may witness a massive raduno di Ferrari in MODENA’s Piazza Grande on a Sunday morning. While you’re there, pop into the Duomo guarded by stone lions and climb Ghirlandina Tower if it’s open. The town boasts colorful homes and porticoes like Bologna, a grand palace and public gardens, as well as the Ferrari factory about forty minutes away in Maranello. Take a bus from the main station past Via Emilia Ovest to the Galleria di Ferrari— definitely worth the trip to see showroom after showroom of many models of Ferraris through the years. Don’t leave town without sampling Modena’s famous balsamic vinegar!
If you’re lucky, you may witness a massive raduno di Ferrari in MODENA’s Piazza Grande on a Sunday morning. While you’re there, pop into the Duomo guarded by stone lions and climb Ghirlandina Tower if it’s open. The town boasts colorful homes and porticoes like Bologna, a grand palace and public gardens, as well as the Ferrari factory about forty minutes away in Maranello. Take a bus from the main station past Via Emilia Ovest to the Galleria di Ferrari— definitely worth the trip to see showroom after showroom of many models of Ferraris through the years. Don’t leave town without sampling Modena’s famous balsamic vinegar!
PARMA
I enjoyed one of the most relaxing days ever here admiring citizens' unbelievable high fashion!
PARMA, famous for its prosciutto and parmigiano, is an excellent town in which to fare una passeggiata, especially on a sunny day. Fashionable university students seem to be everywhere— in the beautiful Parco Ducale complete with a pond of ducks, swans, and fish and the grassy Piazza della Pace. Behind the fountain here lies Palazzo della Pilotta, home to the impressive Teatro Farnese (a spectacular wooden theatre not in use) and the Galleria Nazionale with many works by Mannerist artists Parmigianino and Correggio, who also decorated the Duomo and nearby Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista. Take a quiet stroll along the pretty riverbank on Via Marcotti / Via Toscanini, and soak up Strada Cavour and Borgo Parmigianino for stylish shopping and people watching. Also look for GROM on Strada XXII Luglio!
PARMA, famous for its prosciutto and parmigiano, is an excellent town in which to fare una passeggiata, especially on a sunny day. Fashionable university students seem to be everywhere— in the beautiful Parco Ducale complete with a pond of ducks, swans, and fish and the grassy Piazza della Pace. Behind the fountain here lies Palazzo della Pilotta, home to the impressive Teatro Farnese (a spectacular wooden theatre not in use) and the Galleria Nazionale with many works by Mannerist artists Parmigianino and Correggio, who also decorated the Duomo and nearby Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista. Take a quiet stroll along the pretty riverbank on Via Marcotti / Via Toscanini, and soak up Strada Cavour and Borgo Parmigianino for stylish shopping and people watching. Also look for GROM on Strada XXII Luglio!
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